Monday, May 23, 2011

Chef Laura on Gigya's Demo Site

Check it out here!

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Hors D'oeurves in 15 Minutes

I love Easter - traditionally I've always done a big lunch, or contributed with an entree, like last year, where, as a guest I signed up for the roasted lamb; marinated in fennel and green garlic (my favorite lamb recipe)and quinoa salad.

This year, with the little monkey to attend to, I was asked to make hors d'oeurves instead. Not having very much prep time, and also low on my tank of energy, it was imperative that anything I make would be simple, tasty, and of course live up to my reputation as Chef Laura.

It didn't take me too long to figure out that bacon wrapped dates and gougeres where the two best options. 

Bacon wrapped dates have, for a long time been a perennial favorite.  I love the sweet salty taste of it, and usually combine it with a blue cheese garlic sauce that adds some good kick to it.  Also, the name of the dish really describes the recipe.  That's all there is to it - except that, of course, you have to bake it until the bacon is cooked.  (I like using the uncured bacon from Trader Joes)

Gougeres, or cheese puffs, on the other hand, do require a recipe.  They are the epitome of an amuse bouche.  Light, yet whetting your appetite, causing you to want more!  The first time I made these were way back when I was in junior high.  Not having very much experience, they were crunchy for all of two seconds, and then immediately sagged after coming out of the oven.  Regardless, they were delicious.  The nutty cheese and the light dough (chewy instead of crunchy) actually resulted in me making them the wrong way more than once!

Years later, (without engaging the recipe again) I finally learned the proper way to make them.  The secret lies in two thing.  One, cooling off the dough before adding the eggs, and two, making sure each egg is fully incorporated before the next one is added.  Make sure that you no longer can see steam coming from the dough before the eggs are added.  This excess moisture is what contributes to the "sagging".  When adding the eggs, you want to quickly beat it into the dough, lest it cook from the heat before incorporating. 

You'll get the most success using an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, but it is sometimes too cumbersome to break out the mixer just for this. As an alternative, you will need some very good fore arm strength, either yours or someone else's.  If you do it the manual way, use a wooden spoon to do the whole thing, beating very vigorously throughout the whole process.

As an added bonus, after the gougeres are cooked, turn the oven off, and leave the door cracked with the gougeres still in them to let them dry out a bit.  This also helps them retain their crunchiness after coming out of the oven.

Here's the recipe:

Gougeres

Makes about 4 dozen hors d'oeurves

1/2 cup Water
1/2 cup Milk
4 oz Unsalted butter
1 cup All Purpose flour
4 ea Eggs
4 oz Hard cheese (Gruyere, cheddar, semi soft blue will work too)

Large pinch of Salt, Pepper and ground Nutmeg

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. In a saucepan, combine the water, milk, butter and salt and bring to a boil.
3. Add the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until a smooth dough forms
4. Stir over low heat until dough leaves a film on bottom of pan; about 2 minutes
5. Scrape the dough into a bowl; beat vigorously with wooden spoon or in a mixer with the paddle attachment until no longer steaming about 1-2 minutes.
6. Add one egg into the dough, quickly stirring or beating until egg is properly combined
7. Repeat with remaining eggs, making sure that each egg is fully incorporated before the next is added
8. Add the cheese and a pinch each of pepper and nutmeg and combine
9. Transfer the dough to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip and pipe quarter sized mounds (or 1 teaspoon each) onto the baking sheets about 1 inch apart. Press peaks down with a wet finger to prevent brown spots
10. Bake for 22 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown.
11. Serve immediately

After dough is portioned and piped (step 9), it can be frozen, then stored.

Place frozen dough on baking sheet when ready to cook, and bake for an extra 5-10 minutes, lowering heat to 375 after 25 minutes if tops get too brown

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Gateau a la Royale


Jumping on the royal wedding bandwagon, I was tasked with making the royal wedding fridge cake for a tea party.

Having lived in England for a brief period of time, I am ashamed to say that I had no idea what the cake was supposed to be like; texture, taste etc. Online research also did not indicate whether it was supposed to be extra sweet, crunchy, etc.

So, I winged it, envisioning a chewy fudge with a slightly crunchy inside, the sweet more coming from raisins. Some of the recipes called for nuts, but I omitted it since I'm not particularly a fan.


Here's my recipe:

1 package Mcvities Digestive Biscuits
12 oz Bittersweet chocolate chips
1 can Condensed milk
3/4 cup Heavy cream
1/4 cup Light corn syrup
4 oz Butter, unsalted
1 cup raisins

Makes 1 cake

Method
1. Line an 8" square pan with cling wrap
2. Soak the raisins in hot water for about 20 minutes, then drain the liquid off
3. Place the biscuits in a large gallon zip lock bag, seal it, and bash it with a rolling pin, leaving some quarter sized pieces (do this step manually, and don't use a food processor)
4. Combine the condensed milk, cream and corn syrup in a saucepan and bring to a boil
5. Chop the butter up into smaller pieces and place it in a bowl with the chocolate chips
6. Pour the hot cream mixture over the chocolate, and stir until well combined
7. Leave the chocolate mixture to cool until room temperature
8. Combine the crushed biscuits, raisins and chocolate mixture until everything is well coated with chocolate
9. Pour in the pan, level the top and freeze for about 2-3 hours, or until firm
10. Slice with a sharp knife to serve

*Photos by Mikee (Thanks!)

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Consistency, consistency, consistency

I took a friend to John Bentley's over the weekend for dinner. It's been a restaurant that I've frequented over the past few years, starting from my 24th birthday celebration.

The first JB's was right next to The Village Pub, up in woodside, but the newer one has a more central location in Redwood city. I've kept coming back, but this time that I visited, I was so much more convinced that consistency is the recipe to a restaurant's success.

It was unfortunate that during this visit, a couple of things were just not quite what I was expecting (crab salad was a little too tart, hot foie plate was ice cold, foie and lamb was overdone, etc.), and it made me think about whether I would want to go back next time.

I might be overly critical sometimes, but to give me some credit, I do set reasonable expectations; especially, when I feel like it's something I've experienced and can count on.

For a new restaurant, you should always go in with no expectations - after all, there really isn't anything you can base your standards on, just quite yet. However, the second, or third time you visit, generally, it is very acceptable to think that you can hope to experience the same kind of standard that you did the previous times; which is why you continue going back. You re-visit simply because you know what to expect.

When a restaurant has an exceptionally great night (the cooks are all on target, the produce is extra fresh), it sometimes can have the reverse effect on the consumer. A visitor that evening will probably expect the same kind of standard the next they dine, and if the average standard was, well, average, then chances are, the returning visitor would be disappointed, often anticipating the same kind of experience the had the previous time. Disappointment is often much harder to overcome - you'd be pressed to find a customer that would give an establishment recurring business, versus one that that may have thought the food was always just acceptable.

I like to say that it doesn't matter if a restaurant is good or bad - it just always has to be good, or, always has to be bad; that way, customers will always know what they are getting.

Take McDonald's for example - there's just no arguing that the food is just plain bad. However, every time I visit, I am never disappointed. I know that I am paying $5 to get greasy, tasteless, nutrition-lacking, everything bad, food. I go anyway, and go back repeatedly.

Why? Because the food is ALWAYS bad - there's never been a time when I said to myself "Wow, this is the best McDonald's I've ever had, I have got to go back." There's no such thing - the next time I go, I've probably got the munchies and want something awful. (Ok, trivia here, MD's in Asia is definitely better than in other parts of the world, but it's still bad)

There are many factors that are involved in a restaurant's success, many have argued over this - location, food, chef, service, etc; but for me, it's definitely consistency. If a restaurant can achieve absolute consistency, it will most definitely do well in the long run.

Is this reasonable though? After all, there is so much humanity and feeling involved in food; it happens to me as well. If I'm in a good mood, or love who I'm cooking for, the food probably tends to come out better, and vice versa of course. Of course, since consistency is my philosophy is well, I've learned some ways around making sure that my emotions don't affect my food too much. One of them is just practice - the more your practice, the more skilled you will get, and the less room for error. There's no two ways about this - the better chef is almost always the one with more experience, simply because they've done it more times (all other things being equal).

Second, discipline - never serve up anything that is sub-par. I've canceled courses out from menus the day of just because I felt the dish wasn't up to the right standard. It's tempting, especially since each dish cost money; but in the long run, it's worth it.

Third - set the right expectations. I can't dwell on this enough. It's the same in every client facing business. If your consumers have the right expectations, they should never be disappointed. Train the staff well; just because there was a lot of yesterday's beef, doesn't mean that you should upsell it today. Make sure your servers have tried everything on the menu and know exactly how to recommend. As a diner, I always ask my server what they think is best - I always appreciate an honest answer like "well, the lamb is alright, but the chicken is absolutely fantastic." That kind of advice has definitely saved my perception of a restaurant on more than one occasion.

So, possible, but difficult; - I guess that's why there's only one French Laundry, but a McDonald's around every corner.

NB: To give JB's some credit, after expressing my disappointment, their server apologized that the dish didn't meet my expectations and they did something about it. (That's your responsibility as a consumer as well, to give objective feedback).

At the end of writing this, I almost forgot which expert I was writing as - was it the Client Service one, or the Chef one? I now realize that they compliment each other so well, after all, you can't be a chef without servicing your clients.

The long awaited update (Pictures coming soon)

It's been a while since I've blogged anything, but I did have a highlight for July, (yes, I'm several months behind), where I gave another cooking class for a blushing bride to be!

It probably was a really good gift, come to think of it - Young brides these days seldom spend too much time in the kitchen, but will probably be expected to host a dinner party or two, now that they're married. The bride loves to cook as well, so it was also a really fun time for her. Her maids all put on their aprons and whipped out their spoons to produce a spectacular meal that was easy, fresh, and absolutely delicious. It was definitely a meal that she could prepre in the future!

As we cooked, I gave demonstrations on proper sautee methods, some basic knife skills, like the chiffonade and mincing, and some other cooking techniques that were learned were the art of slow roasting salmon, dessert making, and plating 101.

Here's the menu:

Spring Pea Soup
Garnished with truffle scented scream

Wild Mushrooms on Polenta Cakes

Slow Roasted Salmon
Served with Gremolata

Panzanella , Italian Bread Salad

Olive Oil Cake
Served with Roasted Peaches and sweet crème fraiche

We lunched over the feast, and discussed flavors, favorite dishes, and also cooking and eating best practices at home.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

It'll always work out with spinach

After a long pasta hiatus, I decided to go easy, and doth exercise of making dinner with whatever I had in my kitchen.

The goods:

Garlic, Frozen Spinach, Anchovies, Parmesan

The Dish:
Oglio Olio with Spinach and Anchovies

It qualifies as a 10-minute meal, and now I have a new recipe!



Serves 2
12 oz Frozen Spinach
4 cloves Garlic, thinly sliced
4 ea Anchovy Fillets, chopped
2 Tbs Olive Oil
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

2 servings of noodle pasta, cooked

1. Heat 2 tbs of oil in a saute pan
2. Add garlic and cook till fragant and translucent, and browned on the edges
3. Add spinach and cover, steam till tender and hot throughout
4. Toss pasta, anchovies, cheese, and garlic
5. Season with salt & serve with fresh black pepper

Friday, June 25, 2010

Keep Calm & Carry On

I can never turn away a hungry person.

Largely, the joy in cooking comes from seeing others enjoy my food, and while it's a rare gift to always be able to satisfy an appetite, I've learned to use it well.

I've also made it a habit to always have something available in my fridge, so that I can put together a meal quickly and easily, because often, there isn't time to go to the store when I have surprise guests.

By far, my most outstanding meal, was a dinner that I prepared for 6 people (myself included), with about 5 minute notice. I had some friends stop by, and invited them to dinner - so it was originally just 3 people at the last minute. Then, friends of friends showed up, and within minutes, the dinner table had expanded 100% to 6 people.

The initial dinner plan for 3 people was a light & casual gnocchi dish with bacon and peas, tossed in that awesome Pesto a le Monde. However, with this extended guest list, I had to think of something more appropriate (That would severely undermine my talent as a chef). The bacon and peas were already in the pan cooking, and so I decided to extend this and make a creamy pesto sauce, and toss it with spaghetti instead.

Pancetta and Peas is always super successful, so I brought the technique of mixing in egg yolk and cream into the sauce to stretch out that last bit of pesto that I had left.



In line with my philosophy to always store something in the fridge, I quick braised some frozen OMG meatballs in a half bottle of red wine that I also had left from spaghetti & meatballs a week ago.



Now that I had the entree and side protein sorted out - the only thing that was missing was a salad. My cheese drawer had some fresh bocconcini, so I tossed that with some fresh avocado, good olive oil (a must have in anyone's pantry), and ripe apricots, which are of course in season right now.



To much surprise, it really wasn't that difficult to pull off, and really, I could never turn strangers away, for without knowing, some have entertained angels in disguise.



Pesto, Peas, and Pasta

Serves 6

8 oz Bacon Rashers, diced
12 oz Frozen Peas
1 cup Pesto

1 cup Half & half
4 ea Egg Yolks

1 cup Grated Parmesan Cheese

6 portions Noodle Pasta, like linguine, fettucine, or spaghetti


1. Bring a pot of heavily salted water to a boil, and add the noodles
2. In a smaller pot, add scald the half and half, and reduce by about half
3. Heat a heavy sautepan, and add the bacon rashers, until browned
4. Remove most of the bacon drippings, leaving about 2 tablespoons
5. Add the frozen peas, and cover, cooking till peas are thawed out and hot
6. Quickly whisk the egg yolks and slowly temper in the hot half and half
7. Strain pasta, and then toss egg mixture, peas, bacon, and parmesan together
8. Season with freshly cracked pepper and serve immediately